It’s cool and rainy as i arrive in Figueres, Catalunya, on Easter Saturday. There are no processions, but eggs line the roof of the pink Dalí theatre museum, and visitors stand in line out the door into the plaza that bears the artist’s name. Salvador Dalí converted this theatre of the town of his childhood, […]Read more "Dalí 1 – Figueres Theatre"
From the red isilines bus on the Via Domitia, a first view of the snow capped Pyrenees brings chills. But those peaks are not where i am going. The transit terminal of Perpignan, down on the warm plain, is the transfer point for travel to Spain and everything else, and also the main city of […]Read more "The most southern wine region in France / Entering Catalonia"
After a fun final night in Marseille with my host and fellow traveler but on three hours of sleep, I depart this beloved Mediterranean city toward Spain with no fixed plans until Figueres on Saturday. My preferred next stop is Avignon, and a ride offer comes by my fellow couchsurfer and her fiancé. They have […]Read more "Crossing the south of France – Avignon, Nîmes, Montpellier, and the Via Domitia"
My middle day in Marseille starts rough, feeling scattered and not eating enough. But olives, dates, and baguette from the street market and boulangerie will have to do, as I’m on a mission for Les Calanques by afternoon. I take my new dress and scarf with the food and head out with my host as […]Read more "Les Calanques – Ariadne and the infinite sea"
When i wake, the first light of the sun passes through a gap in the range of rolling hills. Green fields with creeks and oak groves become slowly visible. The isilines bus stops near Montelimar, at an oak-lined rest area, and the air feels cool yet dry. I had slept deeply. Around 11 am, the […]Read more "Marseille – Mediterranean gritty euphoria"
Paris is an awesome city, and of all its great places, nowhere was a day more well spent than cemetery Père Lachaise, la grande ville des morts. From the metro stop I accidentally walked into the Jardin Samuel de Champlain, on the cemetery’s east side, enchanted by a statue on the outside wall…a woman, arms […]Read more "Cemetery Père Lachaise – A realm beyond Paris/ a day with the greats"
On the last day of my tour in Belgium, my cousin planned a visit with a relative who lives in Spa. Until this trip, I thought of a spa as a high-society healing center, refined and removed from nature. Now i understand it is a town of mineral springs, acid fountains, in the Ardennes forest […]Read more "Ceci n’est pas un Spa – Spa, Belgium"