LA PAZ, BOLIVIA JUNE 29-30, 2015 The sun beams down in its noon warmth upon my return to La Paz, Bolivia’s major Andean city, so I take my friend’s ‘challenge’ and stay for a night. This is my second pass through La Paz…in the first, the cold late afternoon air made my lungs hurt from […]Read more "Making peace with La Paz"
JUNE 2015 The southern cloud forest starts to the west of the Santa Cruz lowlands. Following the slow curvy rise of the Pirai river into the low mountains, the crowded combi climbs through the canyon and its soft dirt carretera. There are small waterfalls and towering red rock faces covered in green. The air smells […]Read more "Samaipata, Bolivia"
JUNE 2015 Santa Cruz de la Sierra is the major city in the eastern lowlands of Bolivia: modern, tropical, and growing fast. From the air it looks like a spider web, with the carreteras intersected by a series of anillos (rings) numbered 1-7 starting in the center. I’m in Santa Cruz to visit my friend […]Read more "Santa Cruz de los Anillos, Bolivia"
Puno, Peru June 20, 2015 Dawn on Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake on Earth, on the solstice, is a magical point in space and time. The bus terminal at Puno, Peru’s city on the lake, seems set for a perfect sunrise view with the port in front and the hills on each side. However, […]Read more "LAKE TITICACA, UROS, PUNO: THE PERUVIAN SIDE"
Arequipa is a beautiful city, from the volcanoes sitting to the east above it, to the iconic sillar volcanic rock churches, monasteries, and other buildings in the centro. Most of the grey-white sillar material came from Chachani, the craggy, more northern volcano. Even the hostels are sillar with arches, giving a gothic, sonorous feel to […]Read more "Arequipa – the ´white´city"
First, I suggest to anyone planning to travel to Arequipa or the south of Peru from Lima, to go by bus. It’s a 17 hour ride on the Panamerica Sur, which spans the length of South America, following the rocky Pacific coast along most of the way. Several companies have buses that leave in late […]Read more "Arequipa – Panamerica Sur from Lima"
TRUJILLO AREA, PERU June 2015 Trujillo is a mid-size city on the Panamerican Norte on the north coast of Peru. The climate is similar to Lima and the central coast, but a little warmer. During June, the season changes from sunny to foggy and gray, which happened over the days I was there. Yellow cathedrals […]Read more "Trujillo, Moche, Chan Chan"